Glendalough + Killeen Cormac

    These are the two places I've visited on Christmas Day - one well-known (haven't been there in years, so it was time to refresh my memory) and the other rather obscure (which makes it all the more appealing). 

Glendalough

    Tucked away in the ever-dramatic Wicklow Mountains, Glendalough is a place that manages to feel both ancient and alive. With its twin lakes glinting in the sunlight and mist creeping over the hills like it’s auditioning for a gothic novel, it’s no wonder this valley has been luring visitors for over a millennium.

    At its heart is the monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. Legend has it, auld Kev came here seeking solitude—and judging by the jaw-dropping surroundings, he had excellent taste. The round tower, standing sentinel for over a thousand years, is a reminder that this was once a hub of faith, learning, and perhaps the occasional bit of medieval gossip. (Surely, monks had their share of whispered tales?)

    Nature, of course, plays its own starring role. The glacial lakes, framed by rugged hills, shimmer like mirrors reflecting Ireland’s wild soul. If you’re up for a bit of a trek, the Spinc trail rewards you with views that might just make your soul do a little jig. And then there’s the Miners’ Village, where the ghosts of industry cling to the stones, reminding us of lives once lived with grit and determination.

    What makes Glendalough truly fascinating is how it’s always been a place of refuge and renewal. Pilgrims once journeyed here seeking healing waters and spiritual solace. Today, Glendalough is a storyteller, a healer, and a reminder that some places are timeless for a reason. If you haven’t been yet, put it on your list. And if you have, you’ll understand why one visit is never quite enough.

Killeen Cormac

    Killeen Cormac is definitely off the beaten track, but for those who love a touch of mystery with their history, this quiet site on the border of Counties Wicklow and Kildare is pure gold. Nestled in the serene countryside, it’s a place that seems to hum with the echoes of an ancient world—if you pause long enough to listen.   

    At first glance, Killeen Cormac may seem unassuming—a grassy knoll dotted with weathered stones. But these stones tell stories that stretch back centuries, perhaps even millennia. Thought to have been a pagan burial ground before its Christian reimagining, the site whispers of a spiritual continuity that’s both fascinating and a little goosebump-inducing.

   The ogham stones scattered here are the site’s most compelling feature. Inscribed with Ireland’s earliest form of writing, they’re like enigmatic postcards from antiquity. Historians have long debated their inscriptions—are they commemorations for the dead or cryptic messages meant for a select few? Either way, they feel like artefacts with a story still half-told.

    But one stone, in particular, catches the eye and the imagination: the so-called Druid Stone. This upright marker is thought to be the tombstone of a druid, linking it to Ireland’s ancient pagan traditions. It's also the only stone found in Ireland that has inscriptions in both Latin and Ogham to date. While its exact origins remain a mystery, local legend suggests it marks the burial site of a figure steeped in wisdom and spiritual significance. Standing before it, you can almost picture the ceremonies and rituals once performed here, shrouded in the mists of time.

    This mystical place is also linked to Cormac, a shadowy figure whose legend is as foggy as a Wicklow morning. Some say he was a king, others a bishop, and others still wonder if he was a mashup of several historical figures. Regardless, the association gives the site an air of sanctity that coexists intriguingly with its pagan past.

    The charm of Killeen Cormac is in its simplicity. There are no crowds, no gift shops, and no overpriced coffee stands—just an open field where history feels startlingly close and the buzz of modern life seems to fade away.

    If you find yourself wandering Wicklow’s less-trodden paths, Killeen Cormac is worth a detour. Bring your curiosity, your imagination and an open mind—you might just leave with more questions than answers, but isn't that half the fun?