Irish National War Memorial Gardens

    Welcome to what I like to call my second back garden—one of Dublin's best hidden gems and the most beautiful park in a city where the competition is fierce: the Irish National War Memorial Gardens. My words fall short of capturing the depth of my love for this place, and the endless inspiration, joy and peace it has bestowed upon me over the past decade—from the very first moment I set foot here (which was before I called this area home) to this day, it continues to nourish my soul.

    Tucked away in Islandbridge, these gardens are both a serene escape and a poignant tribute to the 49,400 Irish soldiers who lost their lives in World War I. It’s a curious blend of solemnity and floral charm, and it somehow works perfectly.

A Bit of History Behind the Hedges

    Let's rewind to the 1930s. It was then that Sir Edwin Lutyens, an acclaimed British architect, was tasked with designing this tribute. Although Irish-British relations were a touch, let’s say, complicated, Lutyens was determined to create a place that emphasised remembrance over politics and division. The result was an architectural masterpiece that combines classical lines with, well, a lot of roses. And therein lies the real labor of love (and frustration) of the Irish National War Memorial Gardens.  Dublin’s climate doesn’t exactly scream “rose-friendly,” but these flowers bloom every year as a tribute to resilience. Gardeners have had to work tirelessly to balance soil pH levels, add drainage, and adapt to the quirky Irish climate. Apparently, some soil tests and techniques from the National Botanic Gardens have helped here, giving the roses a bit of the VIP treatment. If you visit the gardens in June and see (and smell) the roses in full bloom, you’ll understand why the effort is worth it. These flowers spill out in a riot of reds, pinks, and yellows, giving the whole place an unexpected sense of joy in a garden originally dedicated to mourning.

    Despite the garden’s significant purpose as a memorial, its maintenance was not prioritised after the initial opening. During the mid-20th century, the gardens suffered from a lack of funding and attention. The Irish government, preoccupied with domestic issues and the aftermath of World War II, did not have the resources to maintain the memorial properly. For decades, the gardens fell into a state of disrepair, with the once meticulously planned landscapes losing their vibrancy. The decorative sunken gardens, walls, and pathways were left uncared for, and the memorial’s inscriptions began to weather and fade. Over time, this neglect caused the gardens to lose some of their intended solemnity and beauty.

    It wasn’t until the 1980s and 1990s that serious restoration efforts were undertaken. The gardens were once again recognised as a significant site in Dublin's historical and cultural landscape. In 1993, a major restoration project was initiated by the Office of Public Works (OPW), which undertook the difficult task of reviving the gardens. This involved restoring Lutyens' original designs, replanting sections of the garden, and repairing the memorial inscriptions. This restoration not only brought the gardens back to life but also reaffirmed their importance as a site of remembrance and reflection. The careful attention to detail in the restoration process respected the original vision of the memorial, ensuring that it would continue to serve its purpose for future generations.

Design Elements

    Beyond the roses, the Irish War Memorial Gardens have other unique design elements that bring history to life in unexpected ways. There’s the central sunken lawn, flanked by two granite bookrooms, each containing the names of the fallen soldiers. This is one of those quiet spots where you feel the weight of history just standing still – until a stray leaf or rose petal blows by and reminds you that life keeps moving forward. And let's not forget the granite obelisk that stands sentinel over the grounds. It's a striking landmark that gives the gardens a sort of dignified grandeur, as if the place itself is standing to attention.

Viking Echoes Beneath the Gardens

    The Irish War Memorial Gardens sit atop a location rich with Viking history. Excavations in the area have revealed an extensive settlement, with numerous burial sites discovered along the banks of the River Liffey. These burials date back to the Viking Age, showcasing both cremation and inhumation practices typical of Norse culture. Artifacts unearthed include weapons, tools, and personal items, providing a glimpse into Viking life and their belief in the afterlife. Many of these finds, like grave goods symbolizing the deceased's status, are now preserved in the National Museum of Ireland​.

    The Islandbridge site, along with nearby Kilmainham (my beloved neighbourhood), has been identified as one of Ireland's most significant Viking-era burial locations. These findings affirm Dublin's importance as a Norse settlement, known as Dyflin, during the 9th and 10th centuries. The area's strategic position along the Liffey made it an ideal hub for trade, settlement, and conflict during Viking times​.

    If you're exploring the gardens, take a moment to reflect on this hidden layer of history beneath the serene rose beds and memorial structures. It’s a poignant reminder of the site's transformation—from a Norse stronghold to a peaceful sanctuary honoring Irish soldiers.

The Garden's Silent Sentinels

The gardens feature a selection of plants and trees that align with traditional European memorial landscaping and seasonal blooming patterns. Here's a breakdown of some of the varieties I come across during my strolls:

1. Roses

• The gardens are famous for their roses, particularly the varieties that bloom in shades of red, pink and yellow. These roses symbolize remembrance and resilience, though exact varieties aren't always specified. Common types planted in memorial settings include hybrid teas and grandifloras for their large blooms and fragrance.

2. Seasonal Flowers and Perennials

• Beyond roses, the gardens include a range of perennials and seasonal blooms, which are rotated throughout the year. Some popular choices include:
  • Lavender for its soothing scent and calming color.
  • Geraniums for their bright, continuous blooms.
  • Daisies and Poppies, both of which have symbolic ties to remembrance in war memorials.
  • Calla Lillies

3. Hedges and Shrubs

• Yew (Taxus baccata) is often used in these kinds of settings because of its dense, evergreen foliage and association with longevity and immortality.
• Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) is another favorite in Lutyens-style designs, often used for low hedges to create structured, formal lines around flower beds and pathways.

4. Trees

• The gardens are framed with various native and ornamental trees that offer shade, structure, and seasonal interest:
  • Beech (Fagus sylvatica) and Oak (Quercus robur) are both likely candidates as traditional Irish and European trees that symbolize endurance and strength.
  • Lime (Tilia cordata) or Linden trees are common in formal gardens and add a pleasant fragrance during the flowering season.
  • Cherry Blossoms (Prunus spp.) included for their brief yet breathtaking spring display.
  • Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) trees, often seen in memorial sites, evoke a sense of tranquility and reflection with their drooping branches.
  • Magnolia

5. Water Plants

• Near the riverbank, plants such as Iris, Cattails (Typha latifolia) and Reeds are incorporated to enhance the natural connection with the River Liffey and offer a more diverse habitat around the water features.

    These plants, together with the layout of the gardens, reflect a harmonious balance of color, texture, and symbolism that aligns with the memorial’s purpose. For the latest and most specific plant varieties, you might find more detailed information through Dublin’s Office of Public Works (OPW), which oversees the gardens' maintenance, or by consulting with a garden guide if available on-site.

This isn't the first time I mentioned the Irish National War Memorial Gardens, and it certianly won't be the last. The photographs in this blog post are my most recent—a collection of moody, atmospheric autumnal shots, captured intentionally to showcase a different side of this stunning place. Most photos you’ll find online are from springtime, and while I do have plenty of those in my archive, I wanted to celebrate the beauty of each season because this place truly is a source of eternal inspiration and awe any day of the year.